Our Brake Services

Brake Pad Replacement

Quality pads matched to your driving style: ceramic, semi-metallic, or organic.

Caliper & Hose Inspection

Check and replace sticking calipers or cracked hoses to ensure balanced braking.

Rotor Resurfacing & Replacement

We machine rotors flat or install new ones to stop shudder and vibration.

Brake Fluid Flush

Flush and replace old fluid every 2 years to prevent corrosion and maintain firm pedal feel.

Brake Service & Repair in Mineral Wells

Notice any of these?

Bring your car in before a small issue becomes a big safety risk:

Squealing or squeaking when you brake
Grinding noise during stops
Pedal feels soft or spongy
Car pulls to one side under braking
Steering wheel vibrates when slowing down

Your brakes are your first line of defense—keep them in top shape for Texas roads.

Get Directions to the Shop

Less Obvious Warning Signs

Brake Dust Build-Up: Thick black dust around wheels means pads are wearing fast—check before they grind metal.
Brake Fluid Level Drops: Low fluid often signals pad wear or a small leak—essential to catch early.
ABS Light Illuminates: An ABS warning can mean sensor issues or low fluid—let’s diagnose before full system lockout.
Brake Pad Indicator Light: Many modern cars have pad-wear sensors—don’t ignore that dash light.

Brake FAQ

What is the 30/30/30 rule for brakes?

Think of bedding new pads like breaking in a pair of boots. Here’s how we do it:

Drive at about 30 mph and brake smoothly down to 5 mph.
Let the brakes sit and cool for 30 seconds—no touching the pedal.
Repeat that cycle 30 times.

This helps the pad material lay down evenly on the rotor so you get strong, quiet stops.

How do I tell if my brakes are properly bedded?

Good question. After bedding, your rotors should look evenly dull—not shiny or patchy. You’ll feel a firmer pedal, and the noise disappears. If you still hear squeaks or feel pulsation, they might need more time or a pro check.

Why are my brand-new brakes squealing?

New brakes can whine or squeal until they settle in. It’s normal for the first 100–200 miles. If they keep squealing after that, we check for glazed rotors or missing shims—easy fixes to get rid of the noise.

How can I spot a bad rotor?

Look for scoring or grooves when you shine a light on the rotor. If your brake pedal pulses or shakes when you brake, it’s a sign the rotor thickness isn’t even. We measure it with precision tools—no guesswork.

How do I know if it’s pads or rotors giving me trouble?

Pads usually squeak when they’re worn thin, but rotors cause a vibration through the pedal. Next time you stop, press gently and feel: vibration means the rotor; constant high-pitched squeal means the pads.

Can I replace pads without touching the rotors?

Only if the rotors are still within spec and free of deep grooves. We’ll measure the thickness and check for run-out. If it’s out of tolerance, we recommend resurfacing or replacing the rotor—new pads on bad rotors won’t last.

Why does my car shake when I brake?

That shaking, or judder, comes from uneven rotor wear or hot spots. It’s like riding a wobbly bike wheel. We resurface or replace the rotor and do a quick bedding process to get you back to smooth stops.

How do I know if my rotors are beyond repair?

If you see cracks, severe grooves, or measure below the minimum thickness (check your owner’s manual), it’s time for new rotors. No point resurfacing when they’re that far gone.